Guide to Moisturising Products

Moisturisers: What They Do and Why They Matter

Moisturising products help protect the skin barrier and hold water in to keep skin hydrated. This is true for all skin types — including oily or blemish-prone skin.

Oil (sebum) and water (hydration) are not the same thing.
Your skin can be oily but still lack moisture — especially if the barrier is compromised.

Moisturisers can help:

• Reduce dryness

• Soothe irritation

• Support the skin’s natural balance

But not all moisturisers are created equal — and the right product for one person may not suit another. This guide covers what to look for, what to avoid, and how to make sense of what’s on the label.

What a Good Moisturiser Should Do

• Help the skin hold water by including humectants (like glycerin or urea)

• Support and protect the skin’s barrier with emollients (like squalane or shea butter)

• Create a breathable, protective seal with light occlusives, if needed (such as in drier conditions or overnight)

• Feel comfortable — not greasy, tight, or irritating

• Leave the skin looking and feeling healthy, not overloaded

What a Moisturiser Should Not Do

• Sting, burn, or leave your skin feeling itchy, tight, or greasy

• Promise instant transformation — healthy skin is built gradually

• Contain known irritants if your skin is sensitive or reactive

Examples of ingredients that may cause problems for some skin types:

• Fragrance or essential oils (e.g. lavender, citrus, geranium)

• Drying or simple alcohols — especially in high concentrations (see “Alcohol in Skincare” guide)

• Coconut oil — potentially comedogenic for some skin types

• Menthol, eucalyptus — can be sensitising

• Dyes or synthetic colourants

• Propylene glycol — generally safe, but may cause irritation in very sensitive skin, especially in higher concentrations

• Isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate — may clog pores

• Heavy occlusives — such as petrolatum or mineral oil, which some skin types struggle to tolerate

Note: Many of these ingredients are not harmful in themselves — it depends on the percentage, the overall formulation, and your skin’s needs.

Important to note:
NHS guidance for sensitive or eczema-prone skin recommends avoiding moisturisers with fragrance, leave-on alcohol, lanolin or wool fat, and strong synthetic additives. Other ingredients—such as coconut oil, menthol, propylene glycol, and heavy occlusives—are not always harmful but can irritate or clog some skin types depending on formulation, concentration, and individual sensitivity.

What the Label Might Not Tell You

Skincare labels can be confusing — and sometimes misleading. Here are a few things to keep in mind:

• “Non-comedogenic” isn’t a regulated term. It means the brand believes it won’t clog pores — but it’s not a guarantee.

• “For sensitive skin” doesn’t mean it's free from potential irritants like fragrance or essential oils

• Some alcohols are drying; others aren’t. See the [Alcohol in Skincare] guide for more on this.

• Fatty alcohols (like cetyl or stearyl alcohol) are different from simple alcohols — they help soften the skin and stabilise creams.

• A long ingredients list isn’t necessarily bad — but the more complex the formula, the greater the chance your skin might react.

Final Thoughts

Choosing a moisturiser shouldn’t be about hype — it should be about support. A good moisturiser protects the skin barrier, helps hold in hydration, and leaves the skin balanced, not overloaded.

If your skin feels worse after using a product, it may not be the right fit. Sometimes the best choice is a fragrance-free moisturiser with fewer ingredients, designed to support your skin without overloading it.