Moisturisers: What They Do and Why They Matter

Moisturising products help protect the skin barrier and hold water in to keep skin hydrated. This is true for all skin types — including oily or blemish-prone skin.

Oil (sebum) and water (hydration) are not the same thing. Your skin can be oily but still lack moisture — especially if the barrier is compromised.

Moisturisers can help:

• Reduce dryness

• Soothe irritation

• Support the skin’s natural balance

But not all moisturisers are created equal — and the right product for one person may not suit another. This guide covers what to look for, what to avoid, and how to make sense of what’s on the label.

✅ What a Good Moisturiser Should Do

• Help the skin hold water with humectants (like glycerin or urea)

• Support and protect the barrier with emollients (like squalane or shea butter)

• Create a breathable, protective seal with light occlusives (helpful in drier conditions or overnight)

• Feel comfortable — not greasy, tight, or irritating

• Leave the skin looking and feeling healthy, not overloaded

🔎 The Moisturiser Decoder: What Ingredients to Look For

When you scan an ingredients label, look for a balance of the following building blocks:

1. Water (Aqua)

   • Usually the first ingredient.

   • Provides hydration and dissolves other ingredients.

2. Humectants (draw water into the skin)

   • Examples: glycerin, hyaluronic acid, urea, sorbitol, panthenol, sodium PCA.

   • Keep skin hydrated without heaviness.

3. Emollients (smooth and soften the barrier)

   • Examples: squalane, shea butter, jojoba oil, triglycerides, ceramides.

   • Fill in tiny gaps between skin cells, leaving skin soft and supple.

4. Occlusives (create a protective seal)

   • Examples: dimethicone, light esters, sometimes mineral oil or petrolatum.

   • Most moisturisers contain at least a small amount, because it makes hydration last longer. In heavier formulas (like those with petrolatum or mineral oil), the seal is stronger — those are best kept for very dry skin, harsh weather, or overnight use.

⚙️ Supporting Ingredients

These don’t hydrate the skin directly but make the cream safe and usable:

• Emulsifiers: mix oil + water (e.g. glyceryl stearate, cetearyl alcohol)

• Thickeners/Stabilisers: give texture, shelf life (e.g. xanthan gum, carbomer)

• Preservatives: protect against bacteria/mould (e.g. phenoxyethanol, sodium benzoate)

🌿 The Extras

These are add-ons. They can be useful, but they don’t replace the Big Four:

• Actives: niacinamide, vitamin C, retinoids

• Hyaluronic acid: extra humectant boost

• Omegas (fatty acids): help barrier resilience

• Botanicals: aloe, chamomile, green tea

They may have benefits — but they’re not what makes a moisturiser work.

🚫 What a Moisturiser Should Not Do

• Sting, burn, or leave skin itchy, tight, or greasy

• Promise “instant transformation” (healthy skin takes time)

• Contain known irritants if your skin is sensitive or reactive

Examples of potential problem ingredients (depending on skin type):

• Fragrance or essential oils (lavender, citrus, geranium)

• Drying alcohols in high concentrations (see Alcohol in Skincare guide)

• Coconut oil (comedogenic for some)

• Menthol, eucalyptus (can be sensitising)

• Dyes or synthetic colourants

• Propylene glycol (irritant at higher strengths in very sensitive skin)

• Isopropyl myristate / palmitate (can clog pores)

• Heavy occlusives like petrolatum/mineral oil (well-tolerated by some, too heavy for others)

NHS guidance for sensitive or eczema-prone skin: avoid moisturisers with fragrance, leave-on alcohol, lanolin (wool fat), and strong synthetic additives.

ℹ️ What the Label Might Not Tell You

• “Non-comedogenic” isn’t a regulated term — it’s not a guarantee.

• “For sensitive skin” may still include fragrance or essential oils.

• Not all alcohols are drying: fatty alcohols (cetyl, stearyl) actually help soften and stabilise creams.

• A long ingredients list isn’t always bad — but more complexity can mean more chances of reaction.

💡 Final Thoughts

Choosing a moisturiser shouldn’t be about hype — it should be about support. A good one protects the skin barrier, helps hold hydration, and leaves skin balanced, not overloaded.

If your skin feels worse after using a product, it may not be the right fit. Sometimes the best choice is a fragrance-free, simple formula designed to support skin without unnecessary extras.

⚠️ One Final Note: Fire Safety and Fabrics
Some moisturisers, especially richer emollients, can leave a residue on clothes or bedding. This can make fabric more flammable if exposed to flames or heat. To stay safe, avoid smoking or open fires when using emollients, and wash bedding and nightwear regularly at 60 °C.